2006 Monbousquet Blanc

(from grapes harvested on September 11, just before the first rains fell) Bright, pale color. Sexy, primary aromas of pink grapefruit, minerals and mint, with a slightly tutti-frutti suggestion of banana. Leanish, juicy and brisk, with excellent cut thanks to very firm acidity. Piquant flavors of musky grapefruit peel, underripe pineapple and mint. But this very lively white wine is downright unformed today.

Gerard Perse’s home estate also produces about 400 cases of a sensational dry white made from 65% Sauvignon Blanc, 30% Sauvignon Gris, and the rest Semillon and Muscadelle. This is a wine with an expansive Burgundian texture, lots of honeyed grapefruit, fig, lemon zest, and orange rind, smoky notes, and an undeniable minerality and focus. It should drink nicely for 5-6 years. Feb 2009, www.robertparker.com