2006 Yattarna

Leesy, nervy nose. Transparent and very refreshing with great delicacy. Juicy and lively and this sails above any oak influence. Neat, appetising finish. [Tasted blind, 'White Grange' did perform on the day!] (JR)

The 2006 Yattarna Chardonnay was sourced from Tasmania, Adelaide Hills, and Henty. It was barrel-fermented and aged on its lees for 9 months in 45% new French oak. It went through full malolactic fermentation and was bottled unfiltered. Light gold in color, it has an alluring bouquet of fresh baked biscotti, lemon curd, white peach, and mineral notes. On the palate it is still tightly wound although its richness and potential complexity are apparent. Creamy-textured and impeccably balanced, this lengthy effort will reward several years of cellaring and drink well for a decade thereafter. Importer: Southcorp Wines USA; www.penfolds.com.au

(the fruit for this year's version is a blend of 38% Tasmania, 36% Adelaide Hills and 26% Henty) Bright gold. Deep, pungent aromas of peach pit, pear, Meyer lemon, tarragon and smoky lees. Lithe and precise on the palate, offering penetrating citrus and orchard fruit flavors and smoky lees and herbal notes. The citrus quality returns on the finish, which leaves orange zest, mineral and anise notes in its wake. For a powerful, deeply concentrated wine this is extremely graceful.