2004 Yattarna

All sorts of cool-climate ingredients, incuding some fruit from Tumbarumba presumably went into this flagship ‘white Grange’ from Penfolds. It is finer and more complex and drier than the Bin 311 above with effort positively oozing out of every pore. A massive improvement on the rather heavy early vintages. Should be fascinating to see succeeding vintages. (JR)

The 2004 Chardonnay “Yattarna” was sourced from Drumborg (92%) and Adelaide Hills (8%). No new oak was used in the elevage (unlike the 2003 which spent time in 70% new oak). Light gold-colored, it reveals a smoky, mineral-accented perfume along with green apple, white peach, and tropical fruit elements. This leads to a full-bodied, round, mouth-filling Chardonnay with tropical fruit flavors buttressed by lively acidity, and a long, fruit-filled finish. This is the finest example of Yattarna Chardonnay to date. Penfolds, arguably Australia’s most famous winery, continues to perform at a high level under the leadership of Head Winemaker, Peter Gago. Importer: Southcorp Wines USA; www.penfolds.com.au Also tasted: 2006 Chardonnay “Thomas Hyland” (84), 2004 Shiraz “Bin 128” Coonawarra (84)

92% of the fruit was from Henty, S Victoria, and 8% from their top Piccadilly vineyard, whereas there is often a much larger component from the Adelaide Hills, or from the cooler (higher altitude) and more marginal sites in Tumbarumba, New South Wales (eg in the hot 2001 vintage). For this wine, as for Grange, Penfolds are aiming for a consistent style and quality of wine rather than a consistent source, and the style is still evolving. Though if they found a consistent source, they would be very happy! The wine is put together after extensive blind tastings of all the best fruit from that vintage. Winemaking, especially the use of oak, may also vary greatly from year to year – towards the same end. Barrel fermented and aged, all French barriques but no new oak. Full malo. Unfiltered. Some years 100% new oak. Screw cap, new heavy bottle. Sweet, ripe and spicy fruit. Touch of orange. Rich, deep, fresh acidity. Already a little too warm to show its best. Little bit of smoked bacon. Very creamy, dense, ripe citrus. Very smooth, crisp, grapefruit acidity comes through on the finish. Tasting it again after the reds, the acidity much more marked. With time in the glass, the citrus moves towards delicate apricot and orange. Excellent length. (JR)