2012 Vosne Romanee Les Suchots

The 2012 Vosne-Romanee 1er Cru Les Suchots is the only Bouchard wine not vinified in their own facility. It has open-knit brambly red berry fruit on the nose with a slight gravel scent. It is missing the exuberance of a typical Suchots wine. The palate is medium-bodied with ripe red berry fruit, although there is just a touch of heat on the finish. This is a slightly perplexing wine at the moment. Although I tasted the wines of this Burgundy grand maison in London, I spent a morning with winemaker Philippe Prost to go through at least part of their large portfolio to get an insight into Bouchard Pere & Fils. Ever since Michel Bouchard established the house in 1731, it has been a permanent fixture in Burgundy, surviving seizure by the State after the Revolution, phylloxera, two World Wars and periods when the world simply was uninterested in Burgundy. Today they own 130 hectares of vines, more than any Bordeaux chateau, including 12 grand crus and 74 premier crus. Importer: Henriot Inc. and John E. Fells in the UK.

Slightly stewed red fruit on the nose but fresher and more energy on the palate. Real bite and freshness on the finish and good length, too. Much better on the palate than I expected. (JH)

Very generous oak fights with the otherwise pretty and overtly spicy aromas of cassis, menthol and sandalwood. There is fine volume and mid-palate concentration to the extract-rich medium weight flavors that coat the palate. I like the verve and volume and this is very Vosne in basic character but this will need to add depth in bottle to realize the upper end of my predicted range. Tasted: Apr 15, 2014. Drink: 2020+