2005 Clos de l'Oratoire

The 2005 Clos de L'Oratoire is a huge, bombastic wine. Its concentration and depth are impressive, to be sure. But I find the 2005 monolithic, heavy and one-dimensional. Copious new oak, espresso, blackberry jam and dried herbs are all amplified in this decidedly hedonistic Saint-Émilion. Some readers will surely appreciate this style more than I do, but I find it hard to get too excited about the 2005, although I must add that the wine showed well, even after having been opened more than 24 hours.

Tasted blind. Looks fully mature with a deep ruby core. Interesting fully evolved bouquet. Top note of molasses. Really rather luscious, with masses of interesting savoury fruit and an undertow of dissolving tannins. Tastes like a terroir-informed rather than overly ‘made’ wine. Freshness on the finish. (JR)

From the Comte von Neipperg, his wines from this over-achieving estate always deliver an aromatic fireworks display of cedar wood, Christmas fruitcake, roasted herbs, black olive, cassis and sweet kirsch. The 2005 has all that as well as ripe, well-integrated, velvety tannin, and full body in a sexy, luscious, heady style to drink now and over the next 10-15 years.