2003 Clos de l'Oratoire

This vintage is not as promising as hoped based on previous vintages. Licorice, herb, and stewed vegetable-like characteristics make an appearance in this dark plum/garnet-colored effort. Although well-made, medium-bodied, and evolved, with sweet fruit, and a superficial charm, it lacks depth and delineation. Obviously, this vineyard suffered from the vintage’s heat. Drink the 2003 over the next 7-8 years.

Deep red. Red plum, redcurrant, licorice, toffee and game on the nose. Sweet, plush and creamy, with low-toned flavors of smoked meat and truffle. Will rely more on its dusty, building tannins than on its low acidity for aging. Finishes with noteworthy length.

Soft, round, gentle and charming. Not especially ambitious but a lovely, friendly drink for the early term. This does NOT have staying power but it has oodles of refreshing black cherry charm. (JR)