2006 Carbonnieux

A little sweaty on the nose. Sweet cassis lozenges. A little bit austere on the end. (JR)

Most consumers outside of Bordeaux are probably far more familiar with the brilliant white wine made here than their red, but this is an elegant, Burgundian-styled red that could pass for a grand cru from the Cotes de Beaune. Sweet and sour cherry notes intermixed with notions of new saddle leather, burning embers, and tobacco leaf emerge from the complex aromatics. This dark ruby/purple-tinged, medium-bodied 2006 is not a blockbuster, but a wine of considerable grace, finesse, and elegance. Drink it over the next 12-15+ years. Several titans of Bordeaux died in 2008, including Nathaniel Johnston, the head of the negociant firm that carries his name (Johnston et Fils was founded in 1734 and has a record of selling wine to Thomas Jefferson), and Tony Perrin of Chateau Carbonnieux. Both men were much beloved figures in Bordeaux, and cherished for their wisdom and dedicated service to the wines of Bordeaux. Perrin did much to elevate the quality at this estate.

Dense, herbal and grassy. Not that much fun compared with New World Sauvignon Blanc – so rigorous at this stage. Pretty tough but it may soften and become more appealing. (JR)