1995 Louis Roederer Cristal

The 1995 Cristal (Late Disgorged) is fascinating to taste, as it is quite different in style from the original release. Because of the extra three years or so on the lees, the 1995 Cristal (Late Disgorged) has picked up a reductive note that is not typical of Cristal. Scents of lime, crushed rock, lemon and slate gradually open up in the glass. The 1995 remains taut and chiseled, with crystalline purity and exceptional overall balance. The wine feels wonderfully alive as it tempts all of the senses with its compelling personality. This is a superb showing from Roederer.

A mild winter followed by a relatively warm but wet spring, then frost on 20 April damaged vineyards in Verzy and Verzenay. After a slow start to summer the flowering started nearly two weeks later than usual and coulure reduced potential yields by 20-30%. A spell of hot, humid weather at the end of June accelerated vine development. Throughout July and August there was hardly any rain and above average temperatures. Harvest began on 18 September for Chardonnay and 25 September for Pinot Noir. Ripeness in the Chardonnays was balanced by higher than average acidity in the Pinot Noirs auguring a good well-balanced vintage with excellent keeping qualities. Disgorged 2007. Dosage 8 g/l with the same wine. 57% Pinot Noir. 10% malolactic fermentation. Relatively large harvest. Quite a bit of evolution on the nose. Beautifully tightly knit and complex. Savoury finish. Real bite on the finish. Zesty – real zest! Long. Just slightly dry on the end. (JR)

Very tiny bead. Quite big, broad and toasty. Finishes very dry after a substantial, full bodied palate. A pretty massive champagne though with no suggestion of sweetness. Considerable evolution but it still has something to give too. Very 'serious'. (JR)