1998 Giscours

Plenty to love here, great depth of flavour to the blackberry, cassis fruits, well balanced, meaty tannins that continue to exert their power, with raspberry fruit, white pepper spice, melted tannins, creme caramel, creamy texture, earthy finish, plenty of exuberance. 50% new oak. Pascal Ribereau-Gayon last year as consultant, Albada-Jelgersma family owners.

The 1998 Giscours is a blend of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc. It is a vintage that I have never really warmed to over several encounters. Here it has a conservative bouquet with singed leather; damp undergrowth and almost mulch-like aromas infused the dark fruit. The palate is actually better than the aromatics with edgy tannin, compact black fruit laced with graphite and cedar and a rather foursquare, slightly short finish that at least offers some freshness. I would drink this sooner than later. Tasted at the château.

Tasted at the Château Giscours vertical, the 1998 Château Giscours is a blend of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc picked between September 28 and October 9. It has a healthy deep garnet color with a thin brick rim. The bouquet has melted somewhat since I last tasted it, offering mulberry, overripe oranges and light violet scents. The palate is medium-bodied with a savory opening, the acidity quite noticeable, but beginning to show just a little dryness towards the finish. This had a period where it was quite plump in the mouth. There is still the weight here, the presence, but the grainy finish tapers away too quickly. Drink this sooner rather than later. Tasted June 2015.