1995 Giscours

Smoky and earthy blackberry fruits, rose buds, fine tannins. Soft landing, a little dilute on the finish. Unusually there was 100% new oak in this vintage, needed because when the Dutch Albada-Jelgersma owners arrived in 1994, as they found all the barrels needed replacing, but by this point the work in the vineyard hadn't been done to balance it out, meaning it dominates the fruit a little even at almost 30 years old. First year when director Alexander van Beek arrived, working at first in the in the cellar. Pascal Ribereau-Gayon consultant.

Tasted at the Château Giscours vertical, the 1995 Château Giscours is a blend of 40% Cabernet Sauvignon and 60% Merlot picked between September 25 and October 7. It has a light, herbaceous nose with sage and rosemary scents, though without the retinue of fruit to back it up. The palate is medium-bodied with dry tannin, simple and conservative with a Merlot-dominated finish that feels sapped of energy. The fundamental problem for this and Giscours born this decade is the over-emphasis on Merlot, something that has been rectified in recent vintages. I would consume bottles in the new future. Tasted June 2015.

Rich and sweet and presumably here because the Berrys team stay at Giscours/Tertre during primeurs week. Resolved and easy and flattering. Light and toasty. Long. (JR)