2007 Chardonnay Ritchie

While Mark Aubert no longer produces wines from the famed Ritchie vineyard, in the past it produced a fantastic string of classic Aubert-style, age-worthy Chardonnays from 30+-year-old Old Wente clone vines. Bright, lemon-gold in color with a slightly green tinge at the rim, the 2007 Chardonnay Ritchie Vineyard has a glorious nutty, baked peaches and dried apricot-scented nose with hints of lemon butter and cinnamon toast plus a waft of fresh hay. It has a savory-laced, full-bodied palate, completely coating the mouth with lemon curd and nutty/toasty notes, finishing on a persistent minerally note. This wine was tasted from magnum, sourced directly from Aubert's library cellar.

(15.6% alcohol with a pH of 3.4; from old Wente clones) Medium yellow. Aromas of lemon drop, wild herbs and honey, with a slightly candied character. Dense and thick but lively, with strong acidity and a floral element lifting the concentrated citrus fruit flavors. The wine's sweetness and silky texture are leavened by its firm acid spine, with a late note of green tea contributing piquancy. Actually rather backward today, with the dry, broad, citric finish showing superb persistence.