2008 Chablis Les Clos
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Crushed chalk, struck flint, bittersweet iris perfume, and pungency of grapefruit rind and juniper berry in the nose of Michel’s 2008 Chablis Les Clos mingle with rich nut oils and white peach on a bright yet subtly creamy palate, with liquid floral perfume, piquant peach kernel, chalk, white pepper, and citrus entering into dynamic interaction in a finish whose remarkable grip and enervation contrast strikingly with Michel’s equally wonderful Vaulorent of this vintage. Look for at least ten or a dozen years of excitement. I seriously underestimated the 2007 in my issue 186 report, incidentally, and would now rate it 94. Jean-Loup Michel and Guillaume Cicqueau-Michel have rendered an exemplary collection of 2008s, with their tank-elevage seemingly capturing the exuberance and refreshment of the vintage without paying any significant price in terms of depth and complexity. I suspect that the team’s reliance exclusively on spontaneous fermentation this year might well have contributed significantly to their success. Of course, I do not imagine based on ideology – much less insist – that spontaneous fermentation is always superior, just as I try to avoid any over-simplification of complex viticultural and vinificatory issues. In fact, I strongly suspect that it is the considerable extent of machine harvesting and exclusively tank upbringing of Louis Michel wines that leads many commentators to incompletely appreciate the consistently high level of quality that has since long before 2008 emanated from this address. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802
Punteggi della critica
Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
Altre recensioni e punteggi
Wonderfully vibrant, spicy nose combines ginger, nutmeg, powdered stone, violet and a steely, iodiney quality. Densely packed, tight and young, with a terrific core of citrus, powdered stone and spice fla vors. Already seamless but youthfully imploded, and classic Clos. Really dusts the palate on the horizontal, extremely long finish. When I asked Guillaume Gicqueau-Michel when he'd drink this wine, he said he'd wait 20 years.
Captivating perfumed nose offers grapefruit peel, powdered stone, juniper, medicinal herbs, ginger and menthol; only a dog could hear these high-pitched aromas. Dense, pure and precise, with lovely subtle sweetness and a fine-grained texture to the mineral, spice, citrus fruit and floral flavors. This boasts terrific palate presence and finishes with compelling dusty minerality and subtle hints of ginger and nutmeg. A grand cru like this will probably benefit from a decade of cellaring.