1999 Gevrey Chambertin Lavaux St Jacques

Bright, moderately saturated medium red. Sexy perfume of raspberry, Asian spices, dried flowers, sandalwood and gentian root opened nicely in the glass. Spicy, fine-grained and vibrant on the palate; not especially sweet or fleshy but surprisingly fresh and easy to drink, showing lovely ripe acidity and excellent retention of fruit. This may not have the thickness of today's Mortet wines but it's just entering its plane of peak maturity. Finishes with fine-grained tannins and terrific spicy length. Arnaud Mortet noted that his father Denis aged this wine entirely in new oak.