2006 Exile

(85% shiraz, 10% mourvedre and 5% grenache) Opaque violet. Powerfully scented nose offers an exotic array of dark berries and spices, with smoky minerals and fresh flowers adding complexity. Deep, palate-staining blackberry and mulberry flavors are sharply focused and surprisingly lithe, picking up a hint of sweet tobacco with air. A strikingly complex and seductive wine that will no doubt age but offers immense appeal now. This kept changing in the glass as I followed it over two days. (Multiple importers; www.maltus.com

The Colonial Estate’s two flagship wines come from their own property. The 2006 Exile was sourced from a single 140-year-old vineyard with the blend consisting of 85% Shiraz, 10% Mourvedre, and 5% Grenache. Opaque purple/black in color, it exhibits a captivating perfume of toasty oak, smoke, black pepper, truffle, blueberry pie, and blackberry liqueur. Complex, silky-textured, and nicely balanced, this layered, lengthy wine will continue to improve over the next 4-6 years and have a drinking window extending from 2013 to 2026. ||The Colonial Estate is the Australian project of Englishman and Bordeaux chateau owner Jonathan Maltus. His first vintage in Australia was 2002. The entry level wines are line-priced at $30 offering excellent bang for the buck. Wine Advocate.February, 2009