1996 Fratta

In 1996 there was obviously a philosophical change in winemaking here, as there is more glycerin, a creamier texture, and the blatant herbs have been replaced by a deep, jammy, black currant richness. According to Leonardo Locasio, Paul Pontallier, Chateau Margaux's winemaker, has been unofficially consulting with Maculan. I suspect this extended to the vineyard, where leaf-pulling and crop-thinning have been employed. A barrel sample of the 1997 looked to be outstanding. In any event, the 1996, made from a blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon and 35% Cabernet Franc, is rich, medium-bodied, and elegant. It should age well for 5-12 years.||I have tasted many vintages of Maculan's red wines, including his Fratta Cabernet and Merlot Marchesante. Until recently, his reds have been dominated by undesirable vegetal and overtly herbaceous characteristics. In fact, the 1995 Cabernet Fratta suffers from that problem, as well as a compressed, tight, lean style.||A Leonardo Locasio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620 Wine Advocate.October, 1998