2002 Deutz Brut

The 2002 Brut Millésimé is a polished, elegant wine with an expansive core of ripe apricots, minerals and smoke that emerge from its medium-bodied frame. Here, too, there is a gorgeous combination of clarity and richness in the fruit. The 2002 Brut is 60% Pinot Noir, with 30% Chardonnay and 10% Pinot Meunier. This is a terrific effort from Deutz. This is LA106000467, disgorged February, 2007. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2012. Admittedly it has been a few years since I last tasted the Deutz Champagnes, so I was not fully prepared for the consistently outstanding quality of virtually all these new releases. Although Deutz has been owned by Roederer since 1992, this is the only property in the group that is run in an autonomous fashion, as the Rouzaud family didn’t want to risk losing the estate’s unique identity by consolidation winemaking functions. The Deutz Champagnes undergo full malolactic fermentation and at their best offer a polished, creamy style that drinks well early but that can also age. Importer: Maison Marques & Domaines, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 587-2000

Pale gold with a lively mousse. Smoky pear, quince and yellow plum aromas are complicated by dusty minerals and baking spices. Bright orchard fruit flavors are initially racy but flesh out with air, taking on deeper pit fruit and toffee apple character. A complex, chewy midweight that finishes with gentle lift and lingering poached fruit qualities. This is surprisingly forward.