2005 Macon Villages Cuvee Levroutee

The 2005 Viré-Clessé Cuvée Levroutée has an intense bouquet that stops you in your tracks; scents of yellow plum, acacia and orange blossom are all beautifully defined, and touches of petrol emerge with time. The palate is very well balanced with a viscous opening, and full of tension and race, building toward that (again) almost Alsace-like finish that reminds me of a SdGN. There’s fabulous length and tension, as Guillaume mentioned. I could imagine drinking this with a slab of Roquefort!

(from one hectare where the marne blanche is close to the surface and acts like a sponge for humidity, bringing early botrytis--typically about 25% for this cuvée ): Pale, bright yellow-gold. Like the Cuvée Tradition on steroids, offering aromas of truffle, honey, marzipan and resiny spices. Liquid silk in the mouth but with its obvious sweetness (about ten grams per liter) nicely countered by harmonious acidity. Almost too much for this taster: try it with lobster or in place of a vin jaune alongside porcini mushrooms or cheese. This wine was just released.

The 2005 Vire-Clesse “Cuvee Levroutee” comes from a special two hectares of vine. The wine has an intense bouquet with notes of kerosene, stem ginger, honeycomb and a touch of nutmeg. The palate is ripe and generous on the entry, with touches of ginger, white pepper, bitter orange and a touch of dried honey on the finish. Having tasted this wine blind last year and not quite understood this unique wine, I must admit that I appreciate where Jean Thévenet is coming from and what he intends. My re-evaluation reflects that.