2006 Vieux Chateau Certan

The 2006 Vieux Château Certan was picked from September 12 after ten days of clement weather when two deluges, 60mm then 40mm, fell within 24 hours after the Merlot had been picked. The dilemma was whether to expedite the picking of the Cabernets, though Alexandre Thienpont decided to risk it and waited. Consequently, he lost two-thirds of the crop to wait but believes the surviving one-third was worth it. Though not a huge fan of this vintage in Bordeaux, this is certainly one of its few outright successes. Black fruit, pencil shavings and touches of desiccated orange peel and prune unfold on the nose without the bravura of the preceding vintage, yet detailed and focused. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins, riper than many of its Right Bank peers, and has a very slight viscosity towards the finish. Notes of raspberry, strawberry, a hint of fig and a dash of spice linger on the aftertaste. This is a more austere VCC, though drinking very well now, but it has the substance to age. Tasted at the VCC vertical in Etikhove, Belgium.

The 2006 Vieux Château Certan has quite an "airy" and well-defined nose that seems to side with the Cabernet Franc/Sauvignon. Brambly red fruit intermingles with pencil lead and subtle slate aromas. The palate is medium-bodied and feels cohesive. Fine grip, quite sturdy with a dense finish, perhaps it has dispensed with some of the precision that it exuded in its youth. I came away asking: where will it go? Tasted at The Savoy Bordeaux 2006 dinner organized by Goedhuis.