2004 Vieux Chateau Certan

70 % Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc. Bottle came from Bordeaux this morning! The weather in 2004 described as ‘benign’ with no drought or excessive heat or cold. August, however, was ‘ complicated with humid, warm and cloudy weather. Sunny September saved the vintage. Picking started on 20 September.’ Deep glowing blackish garnet. Not much nose but charming, sweet fruit on the palate. Then a bit of dry tannin kicks in on the end which has a touch of rusty nails. Not the perfect balance of the 2002. Just a little drying on the end. Definitely needs time but I wonder whether the fruit will see the tannin out. (JR)

The 2004 Vieux Château Certan was picked starting September 20. This is a little fuller on the nose compared to the 2002, with more fruit concentration, red plum and raspberry, wilted rose petals and a touch of thyme. This is very endearing and open, yet there is vigor. The palate is well-balanced with finely chiseled tannins. While not the most complex vintages of this decade, it is very well-balanced with a fine bead of acidity, lightly spiced with a dash of cracked black pepper on the finish. I have admired this Pomerol since first tasting it from barrel, and I still do. Drink now or over the next 12 to 15 years. Tasted at the VCC vertical in Etikhove, Belgium.

The 2004 Vieux Château Certan is an important one in my opinion, since it is the first whereby Alexandre Thienpont surpasses the limitations of the growing season, producing one of the best Right Bank wines you will find. Now beginning to show signs of ageing on the rim, it has an intense, more Merlot driven bouquet with wild strawberry, black truffle, hints of burnt toast and truffle. The tannins appear to be softening on the palate that is not as concentrated as the 2005 or 2009 of course, but there is admirable body and density here with some sinew towards the finish that will mellow with time. The aftertaste offers hints of sage and rosemary, completely a very satisfying 2004 Pomerol that should give a couple of decade’s drinking pleasure. Tasted at the Wine Source VCC dinner at The Square.