1983 Vieux Chateau Certan

Alexandre Thienpont has always upheld that the 1983 Vieux Château Certan is superior to the 1982. This has more freshness and delineation on the nose, dark berry fruit, dried rose petals and a touch of sous-bois . It is not the most complex bouquet, but it is as good as, say, Petrus, though not the standout Lafleur! The palate is medium-bodied with rigid tannins. Compact and saline, though again, I find the finish a bit dour and seems to dry out in the glass. Large formats could be interesting, but overall, despite the attractive aromatics, I cannot concur with Alexandre based on this showing. Tasted at the VCC vertical in Etikhove.

The 1983 Vieux Château Certan comes from what Alexandre Thienpont described as a "Cabernet year" after the vineyard was affected by black rot. It has a medicinal nose, well-defined with undergrowth infusing the red fruit, a touch of mint emerging with time. The palate is medium-bodied, though the tannins have just dried out a little in recent years. Touches of tar and rose petal towards the slightly attenuated finish, this is not a bad showing considering the growing season never favoured Pomerol. Tasted at the Vieux Château Certan dinner at La Trompette.

Served blind alongside Gran Coronas but very obviously a top quality mature Pomerol. There was richness with a strong liquorice note and real life and roundness but the wine was still very much alive and kicking. Impressive intensity and structure considering the age. Bravo! A very superior 1983. (JR)