2002 Gosset Celebris

An elegant, complex and wonderfully expressive nose features plenty of yeast character on the extremely fresh citrusy, apple, pear, brioche and cool floral scents. There is equally good complexity to the detailed, refined and intense flavors that seem to lilt across the palate thanks to the ultra-fine bead of the supporting mousse, all wrapped in a delicious and refreshing finale that delivers excellent length on the bright and agreeably tangy finish. This is drinking perfectly though there is absolutely no rush to drink up.

Disgorged August 2013. RS 5 g/l. 52% Chardonnay, 48% Pinot Noir. From Louis Latour Agencies UK. Tasted blind. Some oak? Severe and dry on the end. Bollinger or Clos des Goisses? Lots of raciness and very dry (which should have led me to this, one of only two Extra Bruts in the tasting). Almost severe. (JR)

The 2002 Celebris Vintage Extra Brut displays a noble, clear, fresh and subtle bouquet with white fruit and brioche flavors intertwined with mineral aromas. Silky textured and highly elegant, this full-bodied yet delicate blend of 48% Pinot Noir and 52% Chardonnay is clear and straight on the palate, revealing a ripe and intense, yet refined fruit. It has a persistent and complex, firmly structured, stimulatingly pure and salty finish. Great finesse and ethereal lightness here, with great purity and mineral tension. It also has the intensity of perfect fruit in the long and persistent finish. A great Champagne for the next ten and probably many more years.