1998 Chateauneuf du Pape

Since proprietor Daniel Brunier installed a new winemaking facility at La Roquette, this wine, which has always been good, has taken a noticeable leap in quality. Aged totally in foudre before being bottled, La Roquette is usually a blend of 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah, and 10% Mourvedre. The 1998 Chateauneuf du Pape is one of the finest La Roquettes I have ever tasted. It boasts a dense dark ruby/purple color, as well as a powerful bouquet of black cherry jam, kirsch liqueur, pepper, and Provencal spices, abundant glycerin, low acidity, and a fleshy, full-bodied finish. Tannin and structure are present, but they play second fiddle to the forward fruit, glycerin, and power. Anticipated maturity: now-2012. Importer: Chateau and Estates Wine Co., New York, NY; tel. (212) 572-7725