1978 Chateauneuf du Pape

Pinot-pale. Extraordinary nose – fully mature, but still with pep in its step. Yes, it's a rustic/farmy sort of style, but done with such utter conviction and intensity, you can't fault it. Very delicate for Châteauneuf in fact. Still going strong – would love to see what happens to this in a few more years!

Pinot-pale. Extraordinary nose – fully mature, but still with pep in its step. Yes, it's a rustic/farmy sort of style, but done with such utter conviction and intensity, you can't fault it. Very delicate for Châteauneuf in fact. Still going strong – would love to see what happens to this in a few more years! (RH)

The 1978 Châteauneuf-du-Pape from Château de Beaucastel came up first, poured completely blind. I believe this is the last vintage of Jacques Perrin. It shows moderate bricking commensurate with its age, and an endearing, mellow bouquet of Earl Grey, pressed flowers, mulberry and touches of clove. The medium-bodied palate is a little rustic compared to modern-day Châteauneuf-du-Pape, but beautifully balanced with supple tannins that once were tough, and fleshy, with an animally, leather and hung game finish that slaps a big fat smile on your face. This is a wonderful wine that, if kept in good conditions like this, could give at least another decade of drinking pleasure.