2004 Chateauneuf du Pape

Similar in style to the 2008, yet with more richness, the 2004 Chateauneuf du Pape is ready to go, with up-front spice, ground herbs, dried licorice and sweet black cherry-styled fruits. Medium to full-bodied, layered, balanced and beautifully drinkable, it should be consumed over the coming 5-7 years. One of my favorite producers, Vieille Julienne is run by the brilliant Jean-Paul Daumen. Coming all from a cool, mostly sandy terroir located in the northern part of the appellation, these traditionally made wines possess singular characters that have both richness and depth on the palate, as well as notable elegance and freshness. They epitomize this tiny terroir and are more Vieille Julienne than they are Chateauneuf du Pape. For this tasting, we focused on his traditional Chateauneuf (which is now broken up into two cuvees, the Trois Sources and the Hauts Lieux) and his Reserve bottling, which is produced only when this tiny plot of vines offers something unique to say. Looking first at Jean-Paul’s traditional Chateauneuf (made up until 2009), it is always a rough blend of close to 90% Grenache, with smaller components of Syrah, Mourvedre, Counoise and Cinsault. Completely destemmed, it’s aged in older foudre and never sees any new wood. While it comes from a cooler terroir in the northern part of the appellation (and Jean-Paul favors harvesting on the earlier side), it never lacks for richness and is a concentrated, structured effort that benefits from cellar time. Moving to the Reserve bottling, this cuvee comes from a single plot of 100+-year-old vines, planted in what looks like pure beach sand. It’s also slightly more Grenache dominated than the classic cuvee, with the blend containing 90-95% Grenache and the balance Cinsault and Syrah. It too is completely destemmed and aged all in older foudres. First made in 1994, it’s only produced when Jean-Paul feels that the plot has something special to say. Available in the U.S. through Vin Connect Inc., Tel. (415) 857-5740; www.vinconnect.com

Bright ruby. Vibrant red berry and cherry aromas, with a complex array of fresh floral and garrigue qualities adding complexity. Nervy, sharply focused raspberry and bitter cherry flavors stain the palate and zesty acidity adds lift on the close. More energetic and finely etched than the 2005 today.

Very dark and dense. Quite severe. Very long term. Great liquorice notes – extremely ambitious. Hold for some time. (JR)