2003 Chateauneuf du Pape

Marcoux's 2003 Châteauneuf-du-Pape is fairly unique with kirsch and raspberry fruit, licorice, dried figs, roasted herbs and earth notes on the nose. At times this even shows some hot asphalt, meat and wood notes. This definitely flirts on the roasted profile edge but holds everything together and as a whole is stunning. The palate is full bodied with sweet fruit, great texture and some really killer length. The finish goes on and on and shows some massive, sweet tannins. If you're tannin adverse, I'd recommend not opening one of these any time soon but I'm a huge fan. The last sip of this was the best and a good portion of the roasted notes were gone, leaving awesome, clean fruit.

A wine I rarely get to taste is the limited cuvee (3,000 bottles) aged in tank, the 2003 Chateauneuf du Pape Ephemere. It is a beautiful offering displaying plenty of kirsch liqueur notes intermixed with blackberry and smoky licorice. The wine is medium to full-bodied, ripe, with low acidity in a plump, precocious style that should quickly evolve. Drink it over the next 5-8 years. Importer: Eric Solomon, European Cellars, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565

Medium red color. Intensely perfumed nose offers potent aromas of minerally red berries, plum, kirsch and flowers; this could pass for a ripe-year Burgundy. Then silky, suave and fine in the mouth, with pure red berry and cherry flavors accented by subtle garrigue and a hint of candied licorice. Finishes with lush, sweet tannins and lovely persistence.