2009 Nuits St Georges Les Damodes

The 2009 Nuits St. Georges Damodes verges on the edge of extreme opulence in its super-ripe, dark fruit. Ultimately this comes across as rather one-dimensional. This parcel in Damodes is farmed biodynamically. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2019. My tasting with Frederic Magnien spanned several dozen offerings. Magnien bottles two lines; the Maison Frederic Magnien wines are made exclusively from purchased grapes and/or vineyards the Maison farms through long-term contracts, while the Domaine Michel Magnien range is made from estate-owned vineyards. In layman's terms the Maison wines carry a white label, while the Domaine bottlings carry a black label. The Maison Frederic Magnien wines are made in a large, more spacious cellar in the same facility as the Michel Magnien wines also reviewed in this issue. In 2009 cuvaison lasted 14-15 days, including a 3-4 day cold soak. The malos were later and slower here than at the Domaine, so the Maison wines received an additional racking prior to being bottled. In general the Maison wines tend to emphasize a more red expression of fruit, while the Domaine wines are more towards the blue/black end of the spectrum. All of the 2009s were bottled in February 2011. Importer: Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

Good deep red. Pungent aromas of black cherry, minerals and flowers, plus a whiff of coffee torrefaction. Supple and silky on entry, then solid and dusty in the middle, with a menthol quality and very firm tannins. Offers nice length but comes across as a bit rough after the examples from Chambolle.

The 2009 Nuits St. Georges Damodes verges on the edge of extreme opulence in its super-ripe, dark fruit. Ultimately this comes across as rather one-dimensional. This parcel in Damodes is farmed biodynamically. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2019. May 2011, www.robertparker.com