2010 Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc Roussanne V V

The 2010 Beaucastel Chateauneuf du Pape Roussanne Vieilles Vignes has off-the-charts richness. Keep in mind, the elevage here is slightly different, as it is aged in one-year-old barrels with a touch of new oak, but like its sibling, no longer undergoes malolactic fermentation. A profound wine with hints of nectarine, mango, subtle smoke, rose petals, this sumptuous, full-throttle wine has unmistakable minerality, a skyscraper-like texture and an amazingly laser-like finish with incredible amounts of glycerin and fruit. Drink it over the next 4-5 years. Although some vintages can last 20-30 years, they undergo radical changes in their evolution, making it almost impossible to guess where they are in evolutionary terms. As I said last year, the Perrin family is a large one indeed, with brothers Jean-Pierre and Francois sitting at the top of the hierarchy and their four sons, Mathieu, Pierre, Thomas and Marc increasingly taking charge of their negociant business and their extensive estates throughout Southern Rhone. Now controlling over 1200 acres, as well as having a network of contracts, this operation is the equivalent of a major Southern Rhone train operating at high speed. Moreover, they are doing some incredible work in all price ranges. Other 2011s that the Perrin boys have produced include the following wines, which were very good across the board, especially for 2011s. In particular, readers need to take a hard look at their estate in Vinsobres, which is making the finest wines of that appellation, and more recently, what they are doing in Gigondas with the estate they purchased there, Clos des Tourelles. These are special wines. There are now three cuvees of Gigondas from the Perrins - the Gigondas La Gille, the Gigondas Vieilles Vignes and the Gigondas Clos des Tourelles. All three merit serious attention. Tasting the 2010s, which were all set to go into bottle right after my visit, certainly shows that this vintage is impressive, although I'm not sure that Marc and Pierre Perrin haven't done as good a job with their selections in 2011. Three cuvees of Gigondas look to all have outstanding potential and will probably be in bottle by the time this report is published. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802

Light yellow. An explosively perfumed bouquet evokes Meyer lemon, pear skin, jasmine and minerals. Sappy and penetrating, projecting a compelling blend of richness and vivacity. Powerful, incisive orchard fruit and candied citrus qualities put on weight with air and pick up a touch of bitter quinine that carries through the very long, palate-staining finish. Marc Perrin told me that it's a mistake to associate roussanne exclusively with opulence "because when it's planted on limestone it keeps its freshness. The numbers are low on paper but what's in the glass is bright and contradicts the math and oenologists' predictions."

Three hectares planted 1909. (Some of that material shipped to Tablas Creek in California.) 'More and more we believe Roussanne is a great grape for hot climates, especially on limestone, not because it is acidic – it’s not – but deep roots extract minerality which adds a sort of iodine, refreshing quality. Consultant oenologist would say you had to acidify...' Just 6,000 bottles a year. Marked gold already. Stern marzipan nose. Very tight and young. Hidden depths. Very long and satin texture. Mineral streak here. I’d wait for one of its two periods in its prime. Drink dates refer to the first. (JR)