1989 Leoville Las Cases

The 2021 Overthinker is composed of 65% Grenache, 25% Syrah and 10% Mourvèdre. It has layered aromas of blackberry, blueberry, orange peel, pipe tobacco and star anise with earthy undertones. The medium-bodied palate has a fragrant core of fruit framed by abundant, chalky tannins, and fireworks of fresh acidity highlight floral perfume that emerges on the long finish. (EB)

This bottle of 1989 Léoville Las Cases is the second encountered within four months and is easily the best showing. It has a beautiful bouquet with a touch of menthol on the nose, leaning towards Pauillac with its vivacious cassis fruit. There's little of the ferrous note from the previous bottle. The palate is medium-bodied and the most youthful I have encountered. It's pure with supple black and blueberry fruit and fine tannins. It fans out wonderfully. As I have said, over a dozen bottles through the years, and this is a frustrating Las Cases to pin down. But when it's on, it's on. Tasted at the 1989 dinner at Piccolino in London.

I thought the 1989 Château Leoville Las Cases showed brilliantly, with a classy, elegant, regal feel that's very much in the style of the estate. Certainly in its prime drink window, it has lots of pure cassis and darker fruits as well as graphite, scorched earth, tobacco, and hints of saddle leather. Medium-bodied on the palate, it's balanced, has a pure, layered mouthfeel, resolved tannins, and outstanding length. While it doesn't hit the same heights as the 1982, 2000, 2003, 2009, or more recent vintages, it's a classic example of this terroir that will continue to evolve gracefully for another two decades.