2005 Gevrey Chambertin Les Champeaux

Mortet’s 2005 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Champeaux (from very old vines) smells of ripe cassis, meats and chalk along with subtle spice and vanilla, displays formidable density, firmness, and fine-grained texture on the palate yet persistent brightness and elegance, and finishes with palate-staining, bitter-edged black fruits and chalky, salty minerality. This low-toned, overtly mineral beauty should evolve impressively over at least the next 12-15 years. Taking over this domaine in his mid-twenties, Arnaud Mortet appears poised to bottle a superb collection from his father’s final harvest. The crew took a brief second pass over certain parcels, he relates, and the bunches from some young vines required triage, but otherwise the fruit was perfect at first picking. Malolactic fermentations continued well into last autumn. Mortet emphasizes that he will continue a search for elegance and refinement begun in recent years, with a lighter touch during fermentation, and at least for vintage 2006 the employment of some previously-used barrels in order to de-emphasize wood at the modest end of his price spectrum. Importer: Martine’s Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400.

(these vines are now 90 years of age) Bright red-ruby. Vibrant aromas of blackberry, licorice and minerals. Sweet and liqueur-like but with a lovely tangy quality and plenty of inner-mouth lift to the dark fruit, floral and animal flavors. "Always bright," notes Mortet. Finishes with notes of licorice and bitter chocolate and a slight dryness from the oak tannins.