2006 Gevrey Chambertin Les Champeaux

The Dugat-Py 2006 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Champeaux displays more finesse and refinement of texture as well as a similar, seemingly gravity-defying combination of density with lift and buoyancy to the corresponding Petite Chapelle, although there is less sheer flavor concentration and drama on display. Black tea and blackberry are decadently laced with peony floral notes in the nose, and the tea and berries are underlain by peat, wet stone, and iron filings. It lingers palate-saturatingly, stimulatingly, and a bit mysteriously. Expect more excitement over the next several years and an at least dozen year potential. As usual, Bernard Dugat prided himself on having been able to harvest ahead of the ban de vendange thanks to the intensity of his vineyard labors and to yields of around 25 hectoliters per hectare. (He also credits the accumulated effects of three years on a biodynamic regimen.) Potential alcohol was for the most part in the high 12s, and only a handful of cuvees were lightly chaptalized, Dugat reports. As usual, too, he employed significant percentages of whole clusters and stems in most wines. For further details on Bernard Dugat's approach, see my report in issue 170. Perhaps it hardly requires noting, but the prices of these wines continue to rise relentlessly, sadly but perhaps inevitably putting them out of the reach of most Burgundy lovers. And unfortunately, I did not get an opportunity to taste the two red appellation Bourgogne bottlings of this estate. Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800