1994 Langoa Barton

Undergrowth, leather, raspberry and sweet cherry fruits, alongside cloves, ash, campfire smoke. Fades a little on the finish but this is juicy and extremely moreish, could be polished off in half an hour with a good friend. This was the time in St Julien where owner Michel Delon was starting to do some green harvesting over at Las Cases, but Léoville Barton kept things traditional - reducing crops through pruning at the beginning of the season not through dropping fruit later on. Not a vintage that gets much love, but this is great for drinking now. Will not stay at this sweet spot for too long, so I suggest making the most of it. Michel Raoul technical director.

Dark ruby-colored, with an unexpressive nose, this wine may turn out too austere and severe. It exhibits good power and fruit extraction, but the astringent tannin may cause the fruit to dry out before the wine has shed its bitterness. Don't touch a bottle for 5-7 years ... and keep your fingers crossed.