2007 Syrah Californio Hyde de Villaine

Ripe dark berries, flowers, licorice and tobacco all take shape in the 2007 Syrah Californio Hyde Vineyard. An unusually opulent, full-bodied wine for HdV, the 2007 captures the essence of the vintage beautifully. The aromas and flavors remain quite primary in this dense, structured Syrah. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2022. This was my first visit to HdV (Hyde de Villaine), a small artisan winery located in southern Napa Valley. HdV is partnership between Larry Hyde and his cousin Pamela de Villaine’s family, including her husband, Aubert de Villaine, one of the co-owners of Burgundy’s Domaine de la Romanee-Conti. The wines are generally made with an emphasis on freshness that is achieved through early picking and gentle winemaking. Not surprisingly, the Chardonnays are steely and tense in style, while the Syrah is restrained relative to what most readers are likely to expect in California. Pinot Noir is a recent addition to the lineup. Given the estate’s Burgundian connection, it will be very interesting to see what develops here with Pinot over the coming years. The estate’s Belle Cousine Bordeaux-blend appears to still be a work in progress and the wine less inherently suited to the goals of the estate. Tel. (707) 251-9121

Good bright ruby-red. Musky, resiny aromas of dark fruits, chicory and licorice. Lush and seamless on the palate, but with surprising energy and lift to the complex, mineral-driven flavors of raspberry, cherry, black olive, pepper and chocolate. Offers a captivating blend of saline soil tones and inner-mouth energy. Finishes chewy and long, with notes of herbs and licorice and ripe, dusty tannins.