2011 Zarate Albarino

The 2011 Zarate has a more introspective, stony bouquet that only slowly opens up. The palate is vibrant, tightly wound with crisp acidity. It is nicely focused with hints of apricot and orange peel in the background, then a dab of spice toward the finish. This serves as a perfect introduction to the delights of the region. Drink now-2017. Ernesto Zarate established this winery in the Val do Salnes in 1920 and went on to become one of the pioneers for the region, establishing the “Fiesta del Albarino de Cambados” in 1956, which in retrospect was the catalyst for much that has followed. Of course, during the period what little wine was made was solely for local consumption. Since 2000, Eulogio Pomares has taken over the running of the estate: one of the most forward-thinking, quality conscientious winemakers in the region. He oversees 6.54 hectares of vine scattered over 11 parcels around the villages of Sisan and Padrenda. The estate is dedicated to Albarino although he is keen to improve the quality of his red wines that are respectable, if not of the same quality as his white. The pergola-trained vines are planted at 800 plants per hectare, averaging 35 years in age and Eugenio has eschewed all herbicides and pesticides since 1994, adopting biodynamic principles and re-planting the pergola-trained vines without rootstocks. These are wonderful expressions of Albarino, full of vigor, vivacity and complexity – the kind of wines that put a big fat smile on your face. We commence with a mini-vertical of the Zarate. Importer: Domaine Select Wine Estates, New York, NY; www.domaineselect.com (also www.indigowines.co.uk in the UK)

Pale yellow. Intensely perfumed bouquet displays lemon pith, orange, quince and white flowers, with a stony accent. Clean, tightly focused citrus and orchard fruit flavors are nicely concentrated and firmed by a bitter herb note. Finishes with strong tangy bite and a persistent note of chalky minerals.