1995 Chambertin

The dark-colored Chambertin's bouquet of black cherries, roasted spices and mocha jumps from the glass. This fabulously ripe and intense wine is packed with flavors suggesting stones, minerals and blackberries in its regal, full-bodied and thick personality. Slightly rugged and backward, it will require extended cellaring before it is ready to drink. Projected peak of maturity: 2004-2015. This note is the result of tastings I did in Burgundy between January 7 and January 29. The wine was tasted from cask, not bottle. Pinot Noir, a fragile varietal, reacts poorly to fining, filtration, and careless bottling techniques, I recommend caution when considering buying a red burgundy based on cask samples. I called it as I tasted, and hope the bottled wine reflects the quality of the samples I was provided. A Patrick Lesec Selection (Paris Fax: 011-33-1-42-84-38-22), and in Massachusetts: Classic Wine Imports, Boston, MA; tel (617) 731-6644.

Excellent dark red-ruby color. Subtle, nuanced aromas of black plum, redcurrant, iron and pepper, plus an almost mentholated suggestion of austerity and a vegetal/spicy hint of soil. By no means an outsized grand cru, but suave and silky in the mouth, with superb intensity and penetration of flavor. Plenty of backbone. Very subtle and extremely long, with a burst of black cherry flavor. Fine, toothcoating tannins fill the entire mouth. Appears to be the best wine bottled to date by the young Trapet.