2006 Chambertin

From a combination of contract fruit and purchased wine, the Camille Giroud 2006 Chambertin is dominated by dark berries, black licorice, and roasted meats. Firmly tannic, and with a bit of roughness that may prove superficial, it displays obvious promise from tank, particularly in sheer palate persistence. But one would want to check this out again in 2010 or 2011 before rendering a verdict on longer-term aging. David Croix racked his 2006s into tank earlier than normal in an attempt to preserve the maximum of fruit. (For details about the recent revival of Camille Giroud and about David Croix's approach, readers are referred to reports in issues 160 and 170 respectively. A Gevrey-Chambertin En Champs was too reduced from tank when I last tasted it to adequately access, but it definitely displayed potential and reflected its old vines of a tiny-berried selection; while a Clos Vougeot from purchased fruit was stuck in protracted malo.) A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet (various importers); fax 011-333-80-24-29-70