2003 Gevrey Chambertin Estournelles St Jacques

The 2003 Gevrey-Chambertin Estournelles St.-Jacques, a rose and red cherry-scented effort, will require patience. Its concentrated as well as extracted core of fruit offers plummy black cherry and dark berry flavors encased in a firm yet ripe tannic structure. This medium-bodied wine should be drunk between 2010 and 2019. Note: Three wines that were tasted as barrel samples in November, 2004 were re-tasted from bottle in June, 2005. The 2003 Puligny-Montrachet (rated 87 points) is medium-bodied, expressive and plush, yet focused; the 2003 Pernand-Vergelesses Croix de Pierre (88) sports a wonderful nose of flowers and red cherries as well as a deep medium-bodied character filled with stony dark fruits; and the outstanding 2003 Pommard Rugiens (92) is medium to full-bodied, dense, structured, intense, and crammed with dark fruits. Importer: Kobrand, Inc., New York, NY; tel. (212) 490-9300

Medium ruby-red. Subtle, noble aromas of black cherry, small wild dark berries, minerals and spices, with suggestions of chestnut and chive. Superripe yet penetrating. Still a bit youthfully unforthcoming in the middle palate but finishes with excellent grip, length and shape, and a cool suggestion of rhubarb. The yield here was close to normal in the context of this vintage, as Jadot made six barrels, vs. a normal nine. A terrific showing.