1983 Haut Brion (Unsaleable)

Tasted at lunch at La Trompette. I have always had a soft spot for the Haut-Brion 1983 as one of the 'friendliest' of the First Growths. Though not a top-tier Haut-Brion, the 1983 has developed a fine earthy, leathery bouquet that is similar to the ’86 but without the same vigour or complexity. The palate is very harmonious with a citrus-tinged entry, its lack of depth and length compensated by poise and tension. Sandalwood, cedar and a touch of truffle and smoke towards the finish. Lovely. A point. (NM)

A somewhat controversial Haut-Brion, this wine reached full maturity at a shockingly fast pace and seems now to be giving signs of cracking up. A very earthy, melted asphalt, creosote-like nose intermixed with compost, decaying autumnal vegetation, and herb-tinged fruit is actually more appealing than it might sound. In the mouth the wine is fleshy, medium-bodied, relatively lush, but the garnet color is showing considerable amber, and the finish starts to dry out after the wine sits in the glass for just a mere five minutes. And of course, I have tasted this wine from pristinely stored bottles, so I suspect those that have been less than perfectly stored are probably already in serious decline. Anticipated maturity: Now. Drink up. Last tasted, 11/02.

A somewhat controversial Haut-Brion, this wine reached full maturity at a shockingly fast pace and seems now to be giving signs of cracking up. A very earthy, melted asphalt, creosote-like nose intermixed with compost, decaying autumnal vegetation, and herb-tinged fruit is actually more appealing than it might sound. In the mouth the wine is fleshy, medium-bodied, relatively lush, but the garnet color is showing considerable amber, and the finish starts to dry out after the wine sits in the glass for just a mere five minutes. And of course, I have tasted this wine from pristinely stored bottles, so I suspect those that have been less than perfectly stored are probably already in serious decline. Anticipated maturity: Now. Drink up. Last tasted, 11/02. Jan 2003, www.robertparker.com