1983 de Fargues

One-third of the crop was picked between October 3-10 with further pickings between October 18-20 and then finally, perfectly botrytized fruit was picked between November 4-10. The 1983 de Fargues possesses and undimmed brightness on the nose, befitting a great vintage such as this. There is that leitmotif mandarin scent infused with beeswax and adhesive – perhaps showing a little more maturity than the precocious 1986. The palate is viscous on the entry with razor-sharp acidity: notes of Clementine, quince and dried apricot informing the weighty, persistent finish. This 30-year-old de Fargues has reached its peak, but the end of its plateau is a long way out of sight. Tasted April 2013.

Bright orangey tawny. Strongly orange peel and caramel on the nose.  Not quite as rich as I remember it from a few years previously – losing a little fruit?  Good bright acidity and complexity. Delicious with new season's English raspberries and strawberries grown under glass. (JR)

While no match for the extraordinary wine produced at d-Yquem in this vintage, the 1983 de Fargues (aged 3 years in 100% new oak casks) is, nevertheless, a sensational example of a Sauternes with an amazing resemblance to d-Yquem. A big, buttery, caramel, smoky, creme brulee and honeyed pineapple nose is enthralling. In the mouth, the wine is powerful, very sweet, rich, extremely full, and framed beautifully by toasty new oak. Quite full bodied and intense, this large-scaled wine should have a great future. Anticipated maturity: Now-2008. Last tasted, 3/90. Robert Parker, Bordeaux Book, 3rd Edition # B1