2007 Chambertin Clos de Beze

Ripe dark plum and cherry with a hint of licorice on the nose of the Raphet 2007 Chambertin Clos de Beze follow on a palate firmer and less alluring than that of the corresponding 2008, a sort of role reversal for which neither I nor Raphet can offer an explanation. The saline; smoky; cumin- and blond tobacco-tinged; juicily-, brightly-fruited finish here is what really convinces one of this Pinot's pedigree and pleasurable potential over at least the next 6-8 years. There is however no reason to refrain from enjoying it already. Gerard Raphet's 2008s finished malo by the end of the following January, which is amazingly early for this vintage, and not necessarily advantageous. (He suspects the environment of his new facility has something to do with that rapidity.) He bottled them last January. As a group these wines are not particularly dark or youthful in color, nor do they for the most part exhibit the sort of brightness that I associate with their vintage. That said, they are generous and charming, often with attractively-integrated hints of caramelization. Yields were way down in both 2007 and 2008, notes Raphet, though one can hardly attribute any special degree of vinous concentration to this fact. In common with me, Raphet finds his 2007s - which to my surprise held their own vis-a-vis 2008 - ideal for drinking young. Peter Vezan Selections (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93