2009 Chambertin Clos de Beze

The 2009 Chambertin-Clos de Beze comes across as rather monolithic. There isn’t a whole lot of Beze character or personality here; rather today it is the jammy quality of the fruit that dominates the wine’s overall balance. Perhaps time will help, but I am not terribly optimistic. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2029. Frederic Magnien bottles two lines; the Domaine Michel Magnien range is made predominantly from estate-owned grapes, although a few wines include purchased fruit as well. Magnien also issues a negociant label, Maison Frederic Magnien, exclusively from purchased grapes. If that sounds confusing, welcome to Burgundy! In layman’s terms the Domaine bottlings carry a black label, the Maison wines carry a white label. The Maison Frederic Magnien wines are made in a large, more spacious cellar in the same facility as the Michel Magnien wines also reviewed in this issue. In 2009 cuvaison lasted 14-15 days, including a 3-4 day cold soak. The malos were later and slower here than at the Domaine, so the Maison wines received an additional racking prior to being bottled. In general the Maison wines tend to emphasize a more red expression of fruit, while the Domaine wines are more towards the blue/black end of the spectrum. All of the 2009s were bottled in February 2011. Importer: Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

Bright red-ruby. Knockout nose combines raspberry, black cherry, dried rose, wild herbs, mint and white pepper. Penetrating, tight and stony, with terrific juicy energy and grip to the berry, licorice and cardamom flavors. No sign of overripeness here! Finishes with terrific spine and an impression of youthfully austerity. Captivating ginger and lemon rind notes add complexity and grip. I don't think I would have picked this compellingly perfumed wine blind as a 2009. Along with the 2009 Bonnes-Mares, this has to be one of the most promising wines to date from Fred Magnien.

The 2009 Chambertin-Clos de Beze comes across as rather monolithic. There isn’t a whole lot of Beze character or personality here; rather today it is the jammy quality of the fruit that dominates the wine’s overall balance. Perhaps time will help, but I am not terribly optimistic. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2029. ||Frederic Magnien bottles two lines; the Domaine Michel Magnien range is made predominantly from estate-owned grapes, although a few wines include purchased fruit as well. Magnien also issues a negociant label, Maison Frederic Magnien, exclusively from purchased grapes. If that sounds confusing, welcome to Burgundy! In layman’s terms the Domaine bottlings carry a black label, the Maison wines carry a white label. The Maison Frederic Magnien wines are made in a large, more spacious cellar in the same facility as the Michel Magnien wines also reviewed in this issue. In 2009 cuvaison lasted 14-15 days, including a 3-4 day cold soak. The malos were later and slower here than at the Domaine, so the Maison wines received an additional racking prior to being bottled. In general the Maison wines tend to emphasize a more red expression of fruit, while the Domaine wines are more towards the blue/black end of the spectrum. All of the 2009s were bottled in February 2011. Wine Advocate.May, 2011