2009 Chambertin Clos de Beze

The 2009 Chambertin-Clos de Bèze is a big, structured wine. It, too, has retained considerable freshness. Today it comes across as intense and totally shut down. My sense is that the 2009 will require time for the pedigree of this site to come through, but I am confident that will happen over time. Readers need to be especially patient here.

The 2009 Chambertin-Clos de Beze is a big, structured wine. It, too, has retained considerable freshness. Today it comes across as intense and totally shut down. My sense is that the 2009 will require time for the pedigree of this site to come through, but I am confident that will happen over time. Readers need to be especially patient here. Anticipated maturity: 2021-2039. I was deeply impressed with Christophe Perrot-Minot’s 2009s. The wines are rich and powerful in the Perrot-Minot style, yet also shine with tons of energy. New oak was 20% for the village level wines, 30% for the premier crus and 30-50% for the grand crus, topping out at 50% for the Chambertin. Importer: Martine’s Wines. Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-040

Good deep red. Reticent nose offers scents of brambly wild blackberry, licorice, smoke, espresso and dark chocolate. Silky on entry, then tight, extremely primary and bound-up in the middle. Penetrating and powerful at present, and not fun to drink, but the wine's inner-palate tension and purity of flavor are impressive. Finishes with strong tannins and outstanding persistence. For all its power, there's also an element of finesse here.