2007 Chateauneuf du Pape La Cote Ronde

Deep ruby. Pungent scents of cassis, smoked meat, licorice and oak spices, with slow-building floral character. Broad, palate-staining dark fruit flavors are framed by chewy tannins and become sweeter with air. Showing a lot of oak spice right now but shows impressively concentrated black and blue fruit qualities as well. The finish packs a solid punch and leaves sweet boysenberry, vanilla and licorice notes behind. Give this a few years for the oak to recede.

The 2007 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee La Cote Ronde (a blend of equal parts Grenache and Syrah from 60-year-old vines, with the Syrah enjoying malolactic fermentation in barrel and aging in new oak) possesses smoky, roasted herb, seaweed wrapper, licorice, cassis, and black cherry characteristics. The oak component is beautifully integrated, and the wine has superb concentration, a full-bodied style, and a true Chateauneuf du Pape personality in spite of the new oak. It should drink well for 15+ years. In a vintage – 2008 – where few estate made special cuvees from single vineyards or old vines, I was surprised to see all three cuvees from Paul Autard’s 62-acre estate in 2008. However, after tasting them I must say this property appears to have solved the year’s challenges. Represented by Russell Herman, Berkeley Heights, NJ; tel. (908) 771-9082; various American importers

Bright ruby-red. Powerful aromas of kirsch, blackcurrant, licorice and cured meat. On the brooding side, with dense, chewy dark fruit and cherry-vanilla flavors and suggestions of candied rose and black tea. Gains a bit of energy on the finish but then shuts down. I hope that I caught this in a sullen mood.