2001 Gevrey Chambertin Petite Chapelle

Bright ruby-red. Knockout nose of currant, black raspberry, smoke, game, violet, mocha and espresso. Silky on entry, then supple, rich and lively, with perfectly integrated acids giving shape to the blackberry and violet flavors. Less fleshy than the 2002 but vibrant and light on its feet. Finishes with firm but fine tannins and superb persistence. Should approach its peak in five or six years and last well.

Jammy black cherries compose the aromatic profile of the medium-bodied 2001 Gevrey-Chambertin Petite Chapelle (52-year old vines, 26 hectoliter per hectare yields). A wine of considerable palate presence, it retains impressive purity and detail. Black fruits are intermingled with freshly-laid asphalt in its spicy flavor profile. Drink it between 2005 and 2012. No offense to Peter Weygandt, this estate’s importer, but can anyone think of an easier job than having to sell Bernard Dugat’s wines? For the past decade, this 7.5 hectare (18.53 acre) domaine has consistently produced exceptional wines, a testimony to the relentless pursuit of quality exhibited by Dugat, his wife, and children. “Yes, it’s true that we live in the vineyards, working from morning to night, but the primary reasons we don’t have the same problems as many others in Burgundy is that we concentrate on having low yields and are fortunate enough to have old vines,” sais Bernard Dugat. Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Peter Weygandt, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800

Cask sample. Exceptionally deep crimson, almost exaggerated in each of its dimensions. Masses of acid, masses of tannin, masses of everything that manages to be both aggressive in its intensity yet smooth in its overall impact. 'Not for wimps like me', I wrote in my notebook. But for those who seek power above all in their red burgundy, this wine is perfect. Hence the score. (JR)