2011 Morey St Denis Les Faconnieres

Tasted blind at the Burgundy 2011 horizontal tasting in Beaune. There is a fine sense of symmetry and focus on Lignier-Michelot’s Morey Saint Denis Les Faconnières with vibrant black cherries, raspberry and bergamot scents coming forth. The palate is medium-bodied with crisp, leafy dark blackberry and strawberry notes, leading to a structured, lightly spiced finish that is a little austere, but displays fine length. It loses some of its vigor in the glass upon returning five minutes later, suggesting that it will be earlier drinking than its peers.

Good dark red. Rather inexpressive, brooding aromas of currant, blackberry and licorice lifted by floral and peppery nuances. Then sappy and sweet in the mouth, with lovely density of texture to its concentrated red and black fruit flavors. Excellent richness and balance here, finishing with sweet, fine-grained, savory tannins and a saline quality that leaves the salivary glands quivering. A superb 2011.

From an average of 50-year-old vines, the 2011 Morey St. Denis 1er Cru Faconnie re has a rather taciturn bouquet that needs to muster more vivacity. The palate is medium-bodied with a rounded entry. There is good volume in the mouth with a pleasant sherbet-tinged dark plum finish. Fine. Drink now-2020. This was my first visit to Domaine Lignier-Michelot, located on the eastern side of the RN47 in Morey Saint Denis. The winery itself is undergoing reconstruction with a new underground cellar on the way. Virgile Lignier-Michelot, the appended surname from his mother's side, guided me through the wines that displayed good volume for the vintage, packed full of fruit. Perhaps what the wines did not possess when compared to say Hubert Lignier, is that beguiling finesse and subtlety, but they are facets that can be fine-tuned. Importer: Frederick Wildman Selections; New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700