2006 Vosne Romanee Vieilles Vignes

Cropped, he reports, at less than 20 hectoliter per hectare, Dugat's 2006 Vosne-Romanee Vieilles Vignes originates with two parcels near the walls of the Clos Vougeot in the Quartiers de Nuits, a portion of which lieu dit is classified as Echezeaux, but the rest as village Vosne. The results always seem to be memorable, and that is certainly the case with this rendition, offering a striking palate thickness and sappy, resinous, implosively black-fruited intensity that I could perfectly well understand some tasters experiencing as hyper-concentration. Yet, there is brightness of fresh dark cherry and blackberry, as well as a sense of energy and lift that render the ride on this bullet train of a wine exhilarating. Mushroom, coriander, peat, and black pepper lend complexity en route to a palate-staining finish. The tannins here are not as fine and polished as in the Les Evocelles, and I would plan to give this a few years in bottle before hitching rides over the subsequent half dozen or so. As usual, Bernard Dugat prided himself on having been able to harvest ahead of the ban de vendange thanks to the intensity of his vineyard labors and to yields of around 25 hectoliters per hectare. (He also credits the accumulated effects of three years on a biodynamic regimen.) Potential alcohol was for the most part in the high 12s, and only a handful of cuvees were lightly chaptalized, Dugat reports. As usual, too, he employed significant percentages of whole clusters and stems in most wines. For further details on Bernard Dugat's approach, see my report in issue 170. Perhaps it hardly requires noting, but the prices of these wines continue to rise relentlessly, sadly but perhaps inevitably putting them out of the reach of most Burgundy lovers. And unfortunately, I did not get an opportunity to taste the two red appellation Bourgogne bottlings of this estate. Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800