1995 Musigny

The day I tasted the dark-colored Musigny, it was extremely muted aromatically. On the palate it revealed tightly wound (almost nervous), super-delineated and polished fresh cherries, cassis and violets. Medium-to-full bodied, supple and very long, it is obviously an outstanding wine but it is closed. Anticipated maturity: 2002-2010. This note is the result of tastings I did in Burgundy between January 7 and January 29. The wine was tasted from cask, not bottle. Pinot Noir, a fragile varietal, reacts poorly to fining, filtration, and careless bottling techniques, I recommend caution when considering buying a red burgundy based on cask samples. I called it as I tasted it, and hope the bottled wine reflects the quality of the samples I was provided. As I tasted through Drouhin's offerings of 1995 red burgundies, I was struck by just how differently each terroir expressed itself. Generally, in truly great vintages ('85 and '90 in Burgundy and '82 and '90 in Bordeaux), young reds, at least when young, tend to express vintage characteristics more than individual terroirs. 1995 is an outstanding vintage, just below the quality of '85 and '90. However, the terroir characteristics of the 1995s are very evident, especially at Maison Joseph Drouhin. Perhaps the tight, concentrated fruit that characterizes 1995 allows more room for the terroir to show itself (as opposed to '85 and '90's lush forward, expressive fruit). Importer: Dreyfus, Ashby & Co., New York, NY; tel: (212) 818-0770.