1979 Margaux

It is many years since I tasted the 1979 Château Margaux, so long that it simply possesses the far-off afterglow of what was a lovely wine. Now? It has a slightly deeper hue than I recall. The nose is a little frayed at the edges, but it coheres with a couple of hours of decanting, vestiges of brambly red fruit, old school desk, cedar and pressed rose aromas. The palate has probably lost some cohesion in recent years, though a core of red fruit commingles with cedar, mint and tobacco notes. Judging by this bottle, it is a Margaux that ought to be drunk sooner rather than later, though it still stands up in the context of a mediocre growing season. Tasted at the Complete Bordeaux Tasting dinner at Hedonism.

Light ruby with bricking in the color, the wine is filled with cassis, spice, truffle, coffee and earthy notes. Refined in texture, this medium/full bodied wine is fully mature. The finish ends with cassis and spice flavors. There is no reason to age this wine any longer. It will not improve. This was my last bottle from the case. With a perfect fill, it was also the best of the 12.

This wine is just now reaching full maturity, much later than I initially expected. It is a classy, elegant example of Margauxpossessing a dark ruby/purple color, and a moderately intense nose of sweet black currant fruit intermixed with minerals, vanillin, and floral scents. The wine is medium-bodied, with beautifully sweet fruit. This linear, more compressed style of Margaux possesses a good inner-core of sweet fruit, and a charming, harmonious personality. Although not a blockbuster, it is aging effortlessly, and appears to take on more character with each passing year. Anticipated maturity: Now-2010. Last tasted 12/96