2000 Vilmart Grand Cellier d'Or

The 2000 Brut Premier Cru Grand Cellier d'Or (magnum) is simply breathtaking. This textured, graceful Champagne impresses for the impeccably quality and finesse of its mousse. The oak is beautifully integrated with an expression of perfumed white peaches, flowers, ripe pears, menthol and licorice, all of which flow through to the nuanced finish with tons of class. This is an utterly vivid, alive Champagne that must be tasted, and the large format seems to bring out the best in this wine. Readers lucky enough to find this wine should absolutely not hesitate, it is a gem! The Coeur de Cuvee is 80% Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Noir aged in oak. Only the middle 800 liters of the pressing, i.e. the “heart” is used for the wine. Disgorged: September, 2008. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2020. Proprietor Laurent Champs makes some of the most elegant, refined wines in Champagne. All of the wines are aged in oak ranging from large, neutral casks to small barriques, some of which are new for the top selections. Few producers have been able to find such impeccable balance using oak. A hint of Ramonet here, a suggestion of Leflaive there....simply put, these are majestic wines that no one who loves fine Champagne will want to be without. A Terry Theise Selection, imported by Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

Light yellow with an energetic bead. Exotic, cinnamon-accented citrus and pear aromas are impressively vibrant and focused. Racy, firm and concentrated, offering a blend of intensity and finesse, with pure citrus and pear flavors carrying through the finish. I like this wine's verve.