1996 Henriot Cuvee des Enchanteleurs

Vivid yellow-gold. Kaleidoscopic aromas of citrus fruits, poached pear, mango, lees and licorice, with slow-building florality. Supple, palate-coating orchard and exotic fruit flavors are complicated by notes of herbs and buttered toast, with a smoky quality in the background. Seems younger than it did last year, showing excellent finishing clarity and persistent smoke and spice character. This really won't let go of the palate, which is fine by me. I'd still hold this. (JR)

(a 50/50 blend of chardonnay and pinot noir, all from grand cru vineyards; L0909920608) Vivid yellow-gold. Kaleidoscopic aromas of citrus fruits, poached pear, mango, lees and licorice, with slow-building florality. Supple, palate-coating orchard and exotic fruit flavors are complicated by notes of herbs and buttered toast, with a smoky quality in the background. Seems younger than it did last year, showing excellent finishing clarity and persistent smoke and spice character. This really won't let go of the palate, which is fine by me. I'd still hold this.

The 1996 Brut Cuvée des Enchanteleurs is one of the softer, more forward 1996s readers are likely to come across. Smoke, cantaloupe, pear, flowers, mint, sweet baking spices and apricots are some of the notes that emerge from this layered, sublime Champagne. The finish is long and polished. The 1996 Enchanteleurs is drinking beautifully today, but also appears to have the stuffing to age gracefully for at least another decade. Disgorged June, 2008