2004 Agrapart Blanc de Blancs Mineral Extra Brut

The estate's 2004 Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Minéral shows the tension and clarity of this important Chardonnay vintage. A cool vein of minerality frames wonderfully expressive fruit through to the long, polished finish. This is a fabulous effort from Agrapart. The Minéral emerges from 40 year-old vines in Les Champboutons (Avize) and Les Bionnes (Cramant), both rich in limestone. The wine was fermented and aged in neutral 600-liter barrels and bottled unfiltered with just 1 gram per liter of dosage. Disgorged: June, 2010.

The estate’s 2004 Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Mineral shows the tension and clarity of this important Chardonnay vintage. A cool vein of minerality frames wonderfully expressive fruit through to the long, polished finish. This is a fabulous effort from Agrapart. The Mineral emerges from 40-year-old vines in Les Champboutons (Avize) and Les Bionnes (Cramant), both rich in limestone. The wine was fermented and aged in neutral 600-liter barrels and bottled unfiltered with just 1 gram per liter of dosage. Disgorged: June, 2010. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2020. Old vines, organic farming, fermentations using natural yeasts and full malolactic fermentation are some of the elements that inform the fine, nuanced Champagnes found at Agrapart. Readers should note that several of these releases are single-vintage wines but are not officially declared as such. Importers: Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404; Beaune Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 559-1040

(disgorged April, 2010) Vivid yellow. Intense, chalk-accented aromas of lemon curd, orange, toasty lees, clove and of vanilla. Sappy, focused citrus fruit and pear flavors are lifted by a zesty mineral quality, picking up smoke and anise notes with air. Chewy, gripping and a touch bitter on the finish, which lingers with impressive tenacity and stony persistence. This is very young.